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Cochise Stronghold Rock Climbing
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A good nights read.

1/6/2017

4 Comments

 
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                                   A Good ReadI couldn't sleep last night. I have a list longer then my arm of things to take care of: gas line leaks, photo edits due, termite infestations, dogs to walk...it goes on but the most important is that the books would arrive tomorrow. I just found out today.

​I got up and had a cup of tea. I still couldn't sleep so I thought I would read. I picked a book off the shelf.

​This book has been on my shelf for 4 weeks. I have only cracked it a few times but tonight I curl back in bed with it.

​I'm nervous to read it. There is only one copy and I'm the only one who has it. I know I will see every mistake, every spelling error, every box that is not lined up just right.
​Instead, I smile. Oh! wait, that arrow is a little off. I smile, I like that photo. I am becoming more enchanted as I read. I am transported to a place where I reach down on the approach and run my hand across tops of the dry savanna like grasses as the trail turns west into the setting sun. Then, I am up on a hard, dark patina face specked with glowing green lichen. Then, pulling on another chickenhead I need to slow down to catch my breath, enjoying the rhythmic joy of moving and reading too quickly. I don't want it to end.

​Wait..did you miss that? The first shipment of Cochise Stronghold: Rock Climbing on the West Side Guidebook arrives today.

Thank you again for your support. I had no idea what it would take but sometimes a little faith, such as yours, was the push I needed to keep going.

The people who pre-purchased to help get this project off the ground have a copy reserved for them in this first batch. If you want to come pick one up (cash sales) and have a toast with me I will post the location on the website ..as soon as the shipment drops on my front porch. There will be other places to pick up a book next week, Tanya
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And then there were 2...

1/3/2017

1 Comment

 
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 I like the contrast between this post and my last.  In November the test pages are wrinkled, written over and jumbled. Here, the pages are organized, clean, edited and ready to go. This book writing process has been an uphill battle on most days. Filled with computer frustration, problem solving and exercises in patience.

​The first one took so much time but now I know what I am doing. I redesined the whole thing from font to layout to give this book a better feel, more uniformity and readibility.

​I had a list of things to double check. Everything I had was right-every item crossed off.  A I ran around crazy getting the last GPS points and hiking all the trails over again to make sure the maps were right I realized that it's done.

​That picture was taken a few days before Christmas at the base of End Pinnacle. My Christmas present to myself was finishing the book. I have a few more touchups as I wait for final edits to come back to me and then I push send.

​This time there are no delays due to wrong pages at the printers, no delays due to crazy last minute changes.

​All I know and all I have are here, in these pages. It's time to start climbing again,  Tanya

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The proof is in the pages...

11/21/2016

1 Comment

 
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I took this photo weeks ago. I was in my third round of color edits. Finally, I initialed each sheet for the printers with a big OK and off they went.
​That is part of the process I did not understand at all. My computer puts out color  in RGB. A printer prints in CMYK. I can import the color palette from the printer I can calibrate my screen but guess what. It is all still a guess. You have no idea what things will look like until they are actually on paper.
​Talk about a ridiculously inaccurate process that just adds to the mysteries of book publishing. How do professional  photographers deal with this. My printer kept reminding me that this is technical manual and that it didn't need to be perfect.
​I guess they have never met me. Now don't get me wrong. This book is not perfect. Yet, on Oct 24th I pushed the button and the files were out of my hands. 
​Hands that are still empty at the moment but can't wait to get them on the real thing and see what the photos really look like, the weight of the book in my hands. Today it is all still an idea, but soon it will be reality. 
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Yesterday, Today, and Hopefully Tomorrow I Will Meet Another Hero

12/28/2014

2 Comments

 
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     It was 6am and we were pulled over on the side of the Icefields Parkway, in the middle of nowhere. This stretch of highway spans from Lake Louise north to Jasper. In winter, there is no real reason to drive here. There are no hotels, no gas, not even a tourist stop is open as the road weaves between the giant peaks of the Canadian Rockies. The glaciers are heaving forth with their winter collection of snow and the peaks are shrouded in looming grey clouds waiting to bury all below in another torrent of snow. It is also along this lonely stretch in winter that I saw my first wolf lopping down the middle of the snow covered road, a grizzly fresh from hibernation prance through the snow bank onto the highway, and a large herd of Elk laden heavy with icy coats daringly cross the frozen ice bridges of the Bow River.

    We are here, in the dark, to try an ice climb above our pay grade and our nerves are high. We are ready to step out of the truck when low and behold another vehicle pulls up. This can mean only one thing, another team headed for the same route. But I am wrong, the young man in a t-shirt in -10 temps leaps from the truck and runs to our window. We wants to know if we need assistance as he saw our “luggage” on the ground. We tell him of our climbing plans, thank him whole heartedly for his gesture and wish him a Merry Christmas. That must be it, it is Christmas Day, the kindness of the season is upon us.

    A day later, we are standing at the base of another climb. It pours over a steep cliff from the very tip of a glacier fed by the Wapta Icefields. Though it was -13 at the truck it must be -20 here as the icy chill sweeps down off the heart of winter above. With windchill, even colder as all of our clothes are on and we are shivering. We see 3 people below us ski up. We are intrigued by these hearty souls and after repacking our packs head down to meet them. A jolly Scotsman tells us of their venture to climb this same route. We realize this trio is not made up of just regular folk, the kind that turn tail and run in weather like this. This trio has individually slayed the dragons of these mountains and lived to tell their story. The lines on their faces tell of the wind they have endured over their collective 160+ years in these mountains and upon realizing who they are: I am speechless. Their names accompany routes that I dream about and fear to even approach, but they do not mention these feats. Instead, these men resonated the joy and spirit of the mountains as if it was their first day out.

    We are parked here again, on the side of the road, in the dark. Attempting the same ice climb that eluded us last week. We are expecting a long but rewarding day. Our boots are on and we are ready to step out of the truck when low and behold, another vehicle pulls up. Again, this can mean only one thing, another team headed for the same route. But I am wrong again, another person offering help.

    In one week I have met more heroes than in the last year. How can this simple word represent such dramatically different embodiments but still be the only word I would use? The new year is coming and I think it means one thing-make a resolution to try and embody all of the virtues that make these people heroes in my eyes.

2 Comments

Viagra: The missing item in our first aid kit

6/3/2014

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Laurel Mountain, High Sierra, Climbing, Hiking,
Laurel Mountain from the trail.
High Sierra
View from the summit. Lots of snow still in the backcountry.
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Starting our trip at 1000' elevation and going straight up to 12,000' was our first mistake. Laurel Mountain (making that a 11,000' elevation gain in less then 12 hours) was our planned acclimatization climb. Last year, we should have learned our lesson when I got sick on our third backcountry trip trying to climb Mt. Williamson ( 6000' in one day) that altitude sickness can happen at anytime..

Yesterday, Laurel Mountain  again reinforces this lesson. Our enthusiasm to burst from the car into the alpine was not tempered by good judgement. About halfway up we both started to feel light headed which makes insecure soloing a little precarious. We covered hundreds of feet of beautiful slab capped by the crux, a dike of burnt iron colored rock twisting it's way towards the top. As soon as that excitement was over the altitude sickness kicked up to a new level as Scott became nauseous and got a headache. We quickly realized that this summit was going to be hard fought, and we struggled to the top.

Scott was resigned to lay down for a while to get his heart rate to slow. Currently, our first aid kit contains duct tape, pain meds, wire, a piece of drinking straw (to drink water out of cracks), lighter, hand warmers, maxi pad, Benadryl, epi pen, steristrips, and an inhaler.  We have heard that Viagra, which acts as a vascular dilator can be used off label for these sort of altitude sickness situations.  Looking to add this one. Anyone tried this? Anyone have extras? 

Instead of popping a pill we did the the tried and true method of descending. And as we did our symptoms improved and our big plans for another climb today were cancelled as we were pretty tuckered out.

So those of you planning on escaping the Tucson heat for a climbing trip in the Sierra or Colorado for some big climbs. Don't plan on pulling into Whitney Portal and feeling great on the summit the next day. Prepare with a few days of acclimatization OR a climbing partner that can put up with ALL the side effects of Viagra.

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Scumbing:  The divine combination of aquatic and terrestrial sports.

4/18/2014

0 Comments

 
cochise stronghold, rock climbing, off width, shake and bake, guidebook
Why do you hate offwidths?  It can't only be because of the amount of work they take.  I think it has more to do with the pain, the bleeding, and the scrapes burning in the shower afterward.

But folks,  I think I have found the perfect solution to this little problem.  No longer will my porcelain skin have to endure the rage of the ragged Cochise rock.  Scumbing is the answer…..this unexpected combination of sporting equipment has revolutionized and enhance my climbing.  Long sleeves and knee pads were not cutting it on Shake and Bake.  I needed something that would not slide or bunch  and the previously trailed neoprene ankle brace on the elbow immediately messed up my first arm bar. 

 It took a while to commit to the first cut but I had not used my wetsuit in years and I knew this potentially could be the perfect solution....and it was.  I cut the arms and legs off my wetsuit and notched the inside elbows to increase range of motion. An added benefit was I could now also wear a tshirt to reduce the overheating.  My knee pads had been catching everytime I tried to slide my leg up the crack. By wearing the wetsuit knee sleeves I am sacrificing the thicker padding but the neoprene slides on the rock and fits snug.   I know, I know…..all you traditionalist are going to tell me that I am cheating.  But all I gotta say is ask Pamela!  

Shake and Bake 2:  Tanya 1

I was starting to have doubts I would get back on it in the first place.  I had showed up that morning, failed on a 5.9 hand jam/buldge and felt it was not the day.  I was off.  I took an afternoon nap in the shade feeling like I should give up on my "first" project.  Yep, this truly was the first climb I have every projected.  At least I was able to edit the guidebook description to clearly read "Best to climb this one in Dec, Jan or Feb but your crazy if you think 90* in full sun is off width weather".    I thought about it more and at about 4pm when finally the temps dropped below 90* I got on it.  Maybe it was the suit, maybe it was the temps, maybe I was just finally ready but I got us up all three pitches euphoric like I had nitrogen narcosis.


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Beanfest at it's Best

4/14/2014

1 Comment

 
rock climbing, cochise stronghold, guidebook, sheepshead
rock climbing, cochise stronghold, arizona, sheepshead, stampede
Driving home from Beanfest yesterday, a little dirty, a little beat up, along that winding dirt road as the sun was dipping down and causing that pink granite to glow,  I was smiling.  I thought about all the people out there this weekend and their enthusiasm to make Beanfest happen.  How the flame is passed from one Beanmaster to the next and how Beanfest, like the Stronghold, is not like it was  thirty years ago.  There are portapotties and microbrews and politics and public image and dehydrated food and jimbe drums and nudists and ATVs.  But there will always be climbers looking for their next big adventure sitting around the campfire swapping stories of their last.  All with a blob of beans on their head. 

So in the fall, we will do it all over.  Everyone is welcome.  Hopefully, there will not be 30 mph winds followed by baking sun.  We can test ourselves at silly games that can put us out of climbing for months,  and still the mystery of why none gets hurt will not be revealed. I will have more beta and topos for people so they can get the most out of what the Stronghold has to offer.


COchise stronghold, rock climbing, guidebook
rock climbing, cochise stronghold, arizona, isle of you, guidebook,
1 Comment

How I got so beat up

4/8/2014

3 Comments

 
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Cochise Stronghold, Rockfellow, Shake and Bake, off width, rock climbing
Gotta say I love Jefe's attentive belay in this photo!
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This was not bad but it stung fierce. I seriously need to improve my technique.
ROUND 1-I scrambled up the end of the ledge and walked across to the base of the climb.  From the ground it looked much more laid back.  Like you would just lay on your belly and grunt upwards.  From the base the steepness looks different.  Scott asked if I am going to get on it today.  I responded that I did not have the big cams with me.  Maybe that was intentional, maybe not,  but today was not the day.  I walked away more intimidated then inspired.
Shake and Bake 1: tanya 0

ROUND 2-Scott made sure I did not forget the cams but I forgot the sunblock.  He reminded me that when he climbed it in April and it was hideously hot and sweaty and seemed harder then it was rated.  Great! here I am standing with 10 pounds of gear on me, sweat is already dripping down my back, the sun is baking down and now I have to follow through.  You see, the problem with the written word is it is now permanent.  You all know my goal.  Is this motivation or entrapment.  Right now it feels like pressure., something I don't really associate with my climbing.  I always have a very clear idea about why I am doing things and gut instinct should not be overridden by anything else.  But here I am staring up at something I know I should be able to do but  doubting I can.  Scott gives me the ultimatum that he won't follow it unless I climb it clean.  He is not trying to be mean but his strategy for getting me to give it all I got. He knows me well! I take a deep breath, feel in the crack for a while to conjure up some form of a chicken wing that I am not very familiar with.  Aren't there any 5.8 off widths I could do first? Maybe I am not ready for this?  
My sister is shouting encouragement to me in my head with her famous line GIVVVVVER!!!

I launch, I thrutch, I finally give in on the face holds for my right foot and swing my leg in the crack for a heel toe cam.  Straight in is putting impeccable strain on my arms but I make it higher. Scott is encouraging me and telling me that I have to put my right leg on the face numbs to take pressure off my arms.  I try, my foot peels off immediately, I try again, not working.  Sweat is now pouring brown my back and arms and everything seems wrong, I get to the rest.  A high I fully soak up.  I try again but I am spent.  My head is spinning, the heat and sweat won't let me recover.  The bell rings and round 2 is over already. 
 Shake and Bake 2: tanya 0

ROUND 3-This time I have 3 more cams in the rights range so I can " plug and chug" and have left everything else at home.  New strategy, good shoe on right foot for face nubs and crack high top on left for crack, elbow pad, knees pads.  I start, I get higher, I try new positions.  I get higher then my previous attempt but I again fall short.  Is it fear?  The unknown?  Or is it really just that feeling that I am too tired and I have no more to give after 3 days of climbing.  Once I loose physical confidence, I loose mental confidence. That is the order. Later that day I try again and get to my high point without a problem and push a bit further.  This time, however, just as the angle has started to back off and I know I can make it my attempt to thin the rack  stymies me as I  did not bring the one cam I need.  The ONLY one that will fit.  I curse myself and realize that I now must start down aiding and I hear the bell....DING DING..the round is over.
Shake and Bake3: tanya 0

ROUND 4- This is becoming my first real project. Looking for very patient belayers.........and cooler temps…..and even thinking about not wearing a helmet.

3 Comments

The Abracadaver Training Circuit 

3/11/2014

2 Comments

 
Abracadaver cochise stronghold rock climbing
Stronghold Dome rock climbing
As you may know from my previous post, my new obsession started with the Be All End All failure.  I told you it would get stuck in my craw and now I am formulating a Stronghold  training circuit.  I have carried the number 5 cam with me for 4 weeks.  Yesterday,  I carried the 6 cam which means this illness is getting worse.

Where will this all lead me?  I want to climb Abracadaver but my husband told me he will only climb it with me if I can switch pitches.  Which means I either get the off width or the 11- finger.  Since I will never be able to lead 11- fingers I have opted for the off width which is just as bad and the start of my problems.  

Learning to climb in alpine tradition has engrained in me that I should master  every technique at a grade till I get to move on to the next. This includes off widths. This may take months, for you more gifted people, or years and years and years in my case. Because of this practice my climbing has never improved ….but that is another story.

This story is about the weird, awkward, and painful gruntfests that I am going to get on to prepare myself for Abra this fall when the domes open up again.  After all this training who knows, maybe I will lead every pitch!  Or I will get so consumed by this guidebook writing that it will never happen.  But if you have the same goal, you can follow my circuit here as I explore the less known but equally important climbs of the Stronghold.  I have climbed 6 already and am just editing photos so I can get them to you. Encourage me, bleed with me or lend me your big cams because next up is Shake and Bake.
2 Comments

End of the Rockfellow Season

3/3/2014

1 Comment

 
These last few weeks of Rockfellow season have been glorious with the exception of the high winds on the last two days.  Great job to Morgan and Carl for getting (and sticking) on Endgame in 30mph winds with gusts. Also, to Ryan and Jeff as they styled Forest Lawn to Pair A Grins.  We heard people on it and I frantically rappelled from another dome to get these photos.  Jeff was even gracious and strong enough to "hang out" in the crux while I snapped away.  Wanted to share with you some of the 800 photos I have taken over this last month for the guidebook.  I have been on every dome and in every corner of that formation and can't wait to get back in the fall!

Still need your support to speed up production.  Please pre purchase your guide!

Every guide sold helps pay for the graphic artist and printing.  Hoping to have some test prints to show you soon but we keep refining the layout to make it better and I don't want to reveal a half finished product.  You won't be disappointed!

Forest Lawn-Cochise Stronghold-rock climbing
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  • Home
  • Blog
  • Contact Us
  • Climb Information
    • West Side >
      • Sheepshead >
        • Get The Flock Out of Here 5.10+
        • Ewephoria 5.8+
        • Peacemaker 5.10-
        • The Climb Too Tough To Die 5.10-
        • Absinthe of Mallet 5.9+
      • Road's End >
        • Moby Dick 5.8
    • East Side >
      • Wasteland Dome
      • Zappa Dome
      • Days of Future Past 5.8
      • Endgame 5.10-
      • What's My Line 5.8
    • Bouldering
    • Backcountry Routes >
      • Baboquivari >
        • Don's Crack
        • Dreams of I'Itoi
        • Cradle at Stone
        • Southeast Arete
        • Spring Route
        • The Fellowship
        • Universal Traveler VI, 5.9, A4
  • Guidebook Store
  • T-shirts
  • Places to Stay/Eat
  • Falcon Closures