Why do you hate offwidths? It can't only be because of the amount of work they take. I think it has more to do with the pain, the bleeding, and the scrapes burning in the shower afterward.
But folks, I think I have found the perfect solution to this little problem. No longer will my porcelain skin have to endure the rage of the ragged Cochise rock. Scumbing is the answer…..this unexpected combination of sporting equipment has revolutionized and enhance my climbing. Long sleeves and knee pads were not cutting it on Shake and Bake. I needed something that would not slide or bunch and the previously trailed neoprene ankle brace on the elbow immediately messed up my first arm bar.
It took a while to commit to the first cut but I had not used my wetsuit in years and I knew this potentially could be the perfect solution....and it was. I cut the arms and legs off my wetsuit and notched the inside elbows to increase range of motion. An added benefit was I could now also wear a tshirt to reduce the overheating. My knee pads had been catching everytime I tried to slide my leg up the crack. By wearing the wetsuit knee sleeves I am sacrificing the thicker padding but the neoprene slides on the rock and fits snug. I know, I know…..all you traditionalist are going to tell me that I am cheating. But all I gotta say is ask Pamela!
Shake and Bake 2: Tanya 1
I was starting to have doubts I would get back on it in the first place. I had showed up that morning, failed on a 5.9 hand jam/buldge and felt it was not the day. I was off. I took an afternoon nap in the shade feeling like I should give up on my "first" project. Yep, this truly was the first climb I have every projected. At least I was able to edit the guidebook description to clearly read "Best to climb this one in Dec, Jan or Feb but your crazy if you think 90* in full sun is off width weather". I thought about it more and at about 4pm when finally the temps dropped below 90* I got on it. Maybe it was the suit, maybe it was the temps, maybe I was just finally ready but I got us up all three pitches euphoric like I had nitrogen narcosis.
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