Gotta say I love Jefe's attentive belay in this photo!
This was not bad but it stung fierce. I seriously need to improve my technique.
ROUND 1-I scrambled up the end of the ledge and walked across to the base of the climb. From the ground it looked much more laid back. Like you would just lay on your belly and grunt upwards. From the base the steepness looks different. Scott asked if I am going to get on it today. I responded that I did not have the big cams with me. Maybe that was intentional, maybe not, but today was not the day. I walked away more intimidated then inspired. Shake and Bake 1: tanya 0
ROUND 2-Scott made sure I did not forget the cams but I forgot the sunblock. He reminded me that when he climbed it in April and it was hideously hot and sweaty and seemed harder then it was rated. Great! here I am standing with 10 pounds of gear on me, sweat is already dripping down my back, the sun is baking down and now I have to follow through. You see, the problem with the written word is it is now permanent. You all know my goal. Is this motivation or entrapment. Right now it feels like pressure., something I don't really associate with my climbing. I always have a very clear idea about why I am doing things and gut instinct should not be overridden by anything else. But here I am staring up at something I know I should be able to do but doubting I can. Scott gives me the ultimatum that he won't follow it unless I climb it clean. He is not trying to be mean but his strategy for getting me to give it all I got. He knows me well! I take a deep breath, feel in the crack for a while to conjure up some form of a chicken wing that I am not very familiar with. Aren't there any 5.8 off widths I could do first? Maybe I am not ready for this? My sister is shouting encouragement to me in my head with her famous line GIVVVVVER!!!
I launch, I thrutch, I finally give in on the face holds for my right foot and swing my leg in the crack for a heel toe cam. Straight in is putting impeccable strain on my arms but I make it higher. Scott is encouraging me and telling me that I have to put my right leg on the face numbs to take pressure off my arms. I try, my foot peels off immediately, I try again, not working. Sweat is now pouring brown my back and arms and everything seems wrong, I get to the rest. A high I fully soak up. I try again but I am spent. My head is spinning, the heat and sweat won't let me recover. The bell rings and round 2 is over already. Shake and Bake 2: tanya 0
ROUND 3-This time I have 3 more cams in the rights range so I can " plug and chug" and have left everything else at home. New strategy, good shoe on right foot for face nubs and crack high top on left for crack, elbow pad, knees pads. I start, I get higher, I try new positions. I get higher then my previous attempt but I again fall short. Is it fear? The unknown? Or is it really just that feeling that I am too tired and I have no more to give after 3 days of climbing. Once I loose physical confidence, I loose mental confidence. That is the order. Later that day I try again and get to my high point without a problem and push a bit further. This time, however, just as the angle has started to back off and I know I can make it my attempt to thin the rack stymies me as I did not bring the one cam I need. The ONLY one that will fit. I curse myself and realize that I now must start down aiding and I hear the bell....DING DING..the round is over. Shake and Bake3: tanya 0
ROUND 4- This is becoming my first real project. Looking for very patient belayers.........and cooler temps…..and even thinking about not wearing a helmet.