cochise, rock climbing, guidebook, sheepshead, rock fellow, arizona, stronghold, cochise stronghold

Scumbing: The divine combination of aquatic and terrestrial sports.

4/18/2014

cochise stronghold, rock climbing, off width, shake and bake, guidebook

Why do you hate offwidths? It can't only be because of the amount of work they take. I think it has more to do with the pain, the bleeding, and the scrapes burning in the shower afterward.

But folks, I think I have found the perfect solution to this little problem. No longer will my porcelain skin have to endure the rage of the ragged Cochise rock. Scumbing is the answer…..this unexpected combination of sporting equipment has revolutionized and enhance my climbing. Long sleeves and knee pads were not cutting it on Shake and Bake. I needed something that would not slide or bunch and the previously trailed neoprene ankle brace on the elbow immediately messed up my first arm bar.

It took a while to commit to the first cut but I had not used my wetsuit in years and I knew this potentially could be the perfect solution....and it was. I cut the arms and legs off my wetsuit and notched the inside elbows to increase range of motion. An added benefit was I could now also wear a tshirt to reduce the overheating. My knee pads had been catching everytime I tried to slide my leg up the crack. By wearing the wetsuit knee sleeves I am sacrificing the thicker padding but the neoprene slides on the rock and fits snug. I know, I know…..all you traditionalist are going to tell me that I am cheating. But all I gotta say is ask Pamela!

Shake and Bake 2: Tanya 1

I was starting to have doubts I would get back on it in the first place. I had showed up that morning, failed on a 5.9 hand jam/buldge and felt it was not the day. I was off. I took an afternoon nap in the shade feeling like I should give up on my "first" project. Yep, this truly was the first climb I have every projected. At least I was able to edit the guidebook description to clearly read "Best to climb this one in Dec, Jan or Feb but your crazy if you think 90* in full sun is off width weather". I thought about it more and at about 4pm when finally the temps dropped below 90* I got on it. Maybe it was the suit, maybe it was the temps, maybe I was just finally ready but I got us up all three pitches euphoric like I had nitrogen narcosis.

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Beanfest at it's Best

4/14/2014

2 Comments

rock climbing, cochise stronghold, guidebook, sheepshead

rock climbing, cochise stronghold, arizona, sheepshead, stampede

Driving home from Beanfest yesterday, a little dirty, a little beat up, along that winding dirt road as the sun was dipping down and causing that pink granite to glow, I was smiling. I thought about all the people out there this weekend and their enthusiasm to make Beanfest happen. How the flame is passed from one Beanmaster to the next and how Beanfest, like the Stronghold, is not like it was thirty years ago. There are portapotties and microbrews and politics and public image and dehydrated food and jimbe drums and nudists and ATVs. But there will always be climbers looking for their next big adventure sitting around the campfire swapping stories of their last. All with a blob of beans on their head.

So in the fall, we will do it all over. Everyone is welcome. Hopefully, there will not be 30 mph winds followed by baking sun. We can test ourselves at silly games that can put us out of climbing for months, and still the mystery of why none gets hurt will not be revealed. I will have more beta and topos for people so they can get the most out of what the Stronghold has to offer.

COchise stronghold, rock climbing, guidebook

rock climbing, cochise stronghold, arizona, isle of you, guidebook,

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How I got so beat up

4/8/2014

3 Comments

Cochise Stronghold, Rockfellow, Shake and Bake, off width, rock climbing

Gotta say I love Jefe's attentive belay in this photo!

This was not bad but it stung fierce. I seriously need to improve my technique.

ROUND 1-I scrambled up the end of the ledge and walked across to the base of the climb.  From the ground it looked much more laid back.  Like you would just lay on your belly and grunt upwards.  From the base the steepness looks different.  Scott asked if I am going to get on it today.  I responded that I did not have the big cams with me.  Maybe that was intentional, maybe not,  but today was not the day.  I walked away more intimidated then inspired.
Shake and Bake 1: tanya 0

ROUND 2-Scott made sure I did not forget the cams but I forgot the sunblock.  He reminded me that when he climbed it in April and it was hideously hot and sweaty and seemed harder then it was rated.  Great! here I am standing with 10 pounds of gear on me, sweat is already dripping down my back, the sun is baking down and now I have to follow through.  You see, the problem with the written word is it is now permanent.  You all know my goal.  Is this motivation or entrapment.  Right now it feels like pressure., something I don't really associate with my climbing.  I always have a very clear idea about why I am doing things and gut instinct should not be overridden by anything else.  But here I am staring up at something I know I should be able to do but doubting I can.  Scott gives me the ultimatum that he won't follow it unless I climb it clean.  He is not trying to be mean but his strategy for getting me to give it all I got. He knows me well! I take a deep breath, feel in the crack for a while to conjure up some form of a chicken wing that I am not very familiar with.  Aren't there any 5.8 off widths I could do first? Maybe I am not ready for this?
My sister is shouting encouragement to me in my head with her famous line GIVVVVVER!!!

I launch, I thrutch, I finally give in on the face holds for my right foot and swing my leg in the crack for a heel toe cam.  Straight in is putting impeccable strain on my arms but I make it higher. Scott is encouraging me and telling me that I have to put my right leg on the face numbs to take pressure off my arms.  I try, my foot peels off immediately, I try again, not working.  Sweat is now pouring brown my back and arms and everything seems wrong, I get to the rest.  A high I fully soak up.  I try again but I am spent.  My head is spinning, the heat and sweat won't let me recover.  The bell rings and round 2 is over already.
Shake and Bake 2: tanya 0

ROUND 3-This time I have 3 more cams in the rights range so I can " plug and chug" and have left everything else at home.  New strategy, good shoe on right foot for face nubs and crack high top on left for crack, elbow pad, knees pads. I start, I get higher, I try new positions. I get higher then my previous attempt but I again fall short.  Is it fear?  The unknown?  Or is it really just that feeling that I am too tired and I have no more to give after 3 days of climbing.  Once I loose physical confidence, I loose mental confidence. That is the order. Later that day I try again and get to my high point without a problem and push a bit further.  This time, however, just as the angle has started to back off and I know I can make it my attempt to thin the rack  stymies me as I  did not bring the one cam I need.  The ONLY one that will fit.  I curse myself and realize that I now must start down aiding and I hear the bell....DING DING..the round is over.
Shake and Bake3: tanya 0

ROUND 4- This is becoming my first real project. Looking for very patient belayers.........and cooler temps…..and even thinking about not wearing a helmet.

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It's the adventure

Scumbing: The divine combination of aquatic and terrestrial sports.

Beanfest at it's Best

How I got so beat up

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